The Railway Canvas: Art in Motion and Steel
Dr. Sudhanshu Mani
I
am no painter with a brush, nor a sculptor with a chisel in hand. I am just a
humble novice in the cathedral of good art. Yet I do know how to cradle an
idea, to carry it faithfully across the distance from thought to reality.
It
began, long ago, with the iron muse of my profession. In thirty-five years as
an Indian Railways officer, the moment that etched itself deepest was not a
groundbreaking project or a grand inauguration, but a quiet evening between
Hindupur and Bangalore. There I sat, coffee in one hand, cigarette in the
other, in the lookout glass of an inspection saloon, watching the world unfurl
behind a racing train. The view was not a postcard, but a restless theatre:
fields and dust, surging crowds and silent stretches, laughter, struggle, and
stillness, all in one reel of light and shadow.
I
sat there bewitched, bewildered, almost chastened. What was I doing, gulping
down this living poetry with my eyes and doing nothing about it? Art, after
all, must imitate life, and here life was, thundering at more than 100
kilometres an hour, begging to be told.
Railways
possess a strange intimacy with art. A railway is movement; art is an attempt
to arrest movement. One carries life forward, the other pauses it long enough
for us to understand it. Every station is a stage, every platform a gallery of
human emotions. Joyful reunions, anxious departures, exhausted labourers,
curious children, vendors, dreamers, and wanderers all pass through this vast
travelling republic. If an artist seeks humanity, he need only stand on a
railway platform and wait.
From
that epiphany was born a movement to lace railway spaces with art, murals,
sculptures, galleries, breathing beauty into steel and stone. I joined forces
with my colleague, the ever-creative Lily Pandeya, in 2011, to breathe beauty
into stations and rail premises through lively art camps, striking murals,
evocative sculptures, and even the opening of a full-fledged gallery. Our
journey, painted in hues of passion and persistence, now lives on in our
coffee-table book Art and
Railways: A Bangalore Saga.
The
response was illuminating. Many assumed railway stations existed merely to move
people efficiently from one place to another. Yet when touched by art, these
same spaces seemed to slow down for a moment. Travellers paused before murals.
Children pointed at sculptures. Workers took pride in surroundings that
reflected imagination rather than mere utility. Beauty, we discovered, was not
an extravagance. It was a public service.
That
was years ago. After a parched artistic spell in Germany, a land generous with
inspiration yet strangely stingy with opportunities to engage with Indian art,
I organised a few exhibitions on Indian Railways, accompanied by displays of
allied art, though with only modest success. In 2015, I returned to familiar
shores. My landing spot? The Rail Wheel Factory (RWF) in Bangalore: a
relentless realm of clanging steel and hissing furnaces, as artless as a blank
wall under a flickering tube light.
Or
so I thought.
Another
journey was calling. Clad in a fireproof suit, a workman stood like an
astronaut on a perilous spacewalk. Before him, a brutally red-hot wheel blazed
like a miniature sun. In his hand was a torch-like tool; on his face rested the
calm of one who had stared into fire before. The air shimmered with unbearable
heat, beaten back only by the furious roar of an industrial fan. This, they
told me, was "sprue washing", a phrase as mysterious as the act
itself.
Soon,
my mind was a kaleidoscope: sparks arcing like meteors, steel singing under
hammers, shadows dancing in molten light. The workers here were extraordinary.
My lens could barely keep up. Pictures spoke where words stumbled.
What
struck me most was that these workers were artists themselves, though few would
ever call them so. A sculptor chips away at marble. A foundryman coaxes shape
out of molten steel. Both require judgement, patience, discipline, and an eye
trained by years of experience. One exhibits in galleries, the other on railway
tracks. Yet each leaves behind an object that did not exist before. Each
transforms imagination into form. A couple of art camps were organised, an art
gallery was opened and a book was born: Reinventing
the Wheel: Another Bangalore Saga.
Fresh
from our first marriage of art and railways, then art and a railway factory, I
stood on the threshold of a greater challenge: the Integral Coach Factory (ICF)
in Chennai, crown jewel of Indian Railways. Five times the workforce of RWF.
Over 3,000 coaches a year. A living citadel of steel and skill.
The
great team of ICF designed and built the Train 18/Vande Bharat Express. That is
well known. But trains also have romance. Wheels had their quiet magic, but
building trains was something else entirely. It was architecture in motion. It
was engineering with a pulse. It was a symphony of precision, power, and pride
performed every day without an audience.
Why
repeat an earlier triumph when I could create a duple, familiar in form, fresh
in soul?
ICF
hummed with electricity. The clang of metal rang sharper, the rhythm of work
more purposeful. Faces glowed with pride and anticipation. Was this a factory
in an art gallery, or an art gallery in a factory?
As I wandered through its workshops, I began to see that every finished train carries within it thousands of invisible signatures. The welder's steady hand. The designer's sketch. The machinist's patience. The inspector's vigilance. The painter's flourish. A train is not merely manufactured. It is composed, much like an orchestra performs a score written by hundreds of contributors who may never meet one another.
Twelve art camps were organised with the help of ICF artistically-inclined officers and staff and many Chennai artists who enthusiastically joined in. The factory and other premises came alive with murals and wall paintings. Sculptures were made from scrap and displayed all over. I chronicled these experiments in two more books (A Skein of Trains, Recounting a Chennai Story and Trains Unchained, The Continuing Saga of Art and Railways, the SAFAR). I also started writing blogs on art and railways.
Looking
back, these projects were never merely exercises in beautification. They
gradually shaped my understanding of why railways and art belong together. The
purpose of recalling these experiments in this book is simple: railways inspire
art. More than that, they deserve to be celebrated through art. Few human
institutions possess such a vast treasure of romance, heritage, history,
craftsmanship, and emotional reach. Railways connect places, but they also
connect memories. They witness departures and reunions, ambition and
disappointment, celebration and grief. They are not merely carriers of
passengers and freight; they are carriers of stories.
Now
retired in Lucknow, I try to keep that flame alive, promoting the visual arts
through camps and exhibitions, even if the resources I once had are gone. The
curtain has fallen on the factory floor, but the stage of imagination remains
lit. Retirement, I have discovered, merely changes the venue. The audience may
shrink, the budget may vanish, but the urge to create remains stubbornly
intact.
Walking
out of any art festival, I feel the same sensation I first knew years ago on an
Indian train: art is everywhere, if one is willing to look. On the walls of a
museum, in a back-alley mural, in a village photograph, in the curve of a pot,
or in the toil of a worker finishing a cast wheel. It is all the same urge: to
catch life before it slips away. And in the quiet after each encounter, I feel
again that truth I first glimpsed through the glass of a railway saloon: art is
simply life, caught, stilled, and made to speak forever.
What
fascinates me is how familiar it all feels. Whether in an art museum in Europe,
on an Indian train, in a railway workshop in Chennai, or in a foundry in
Bangalore, the underlying impulse remains unchanged.
Human
beings everywhere seek meaning, expression, and permanence in what they create.
They wish to leave a mark. Some do so with paint, some with clay, some with
words, some with steel. The tools differ; the aspiration does not. It is this
enduring desire to create, to build, and to leave behind something meaningful
that has drawn painters, photographers, writers, filmmakers, and dreamers to
railways for nearly two centuries. Perhaps that is why railways continue to
inspire me as well. For anyone willing to pause and look, railways are not
merely systems of transport. They are vast moving galleries of human life,
carrying not only passengers and freight, but stories, memories, hopes, and
dreams.
Nevertheless,
the Bard spoke through Dromio of Syracuse in The
Comedy of Errors when he observed that "...for they say
every why hath a wherefore." He also taught us through Polonius in
Hamlet that "Though
this be madness, yet there is method in't."
Perhaps
that is the hidden connection between railways and art. Both begin with an act
of faith. A painter confronts a blank canvas. A railwayman confronts an empty
drawing board. Neither knows with certainty what the finished creation will
become. Yet both proceed, guided by imagination, discipline, and hope. One
seeks beauty, the other utility. At their finest, they achieve both.
The
more I reflect upon it, the more inevitable the marriage of railways and art
appears.
Railways
are movement, and art is the desire to preserve its memory. Railways are about
journeys, and art is about preserving their meaning. Railways compress an
entire nation into a few square kilometres of stations, workshops, platforms,
and trains, bringing together every language, every class, every landscape, and
every human emotion. Where else can one witness such an endless procession of
stories?
An
artist seeks colour, contrast, character, rhythm, and narrative. Railways offer
all of these in abundance. The curve of a train against a distant horizon, the
geometry of tracks disappearing into perspective, the glow of a furnace in a
wheel shop, the patient concentration of a welder, the bustle of a platform at
dawn, the loneliness of a signal cabin at midnight, all are works of art
waiting to be discovered.
In the end, I have come to believe that art and railways are companions on the same journey. One carries people across distance; the other carries experience across time. Together, they remind us not merely how to travel, but how to see. And for a railwayman who spent a lifetime watching India pass by through carriage windows, station platforms, workshops, and factory floors, that may be the greatest journey of all.
Books
on Art and Railways by the author
1.
Art & Railways, a Bangalore Saga (co-authored with his colleague Lily
Pandeya) India
ISBN:978-81-928759-0-3
2. Reinventing the Wheel: Another Bangalore
Saga India ISBN 978-93-5267-168-7
3.
A Skein of Trains India ISBN
978-93-5288-141-3
4.
Trains Unchained, the Continuing Saga of Art and Railways, the SAFAR India ISBN 978-93-5321-185-1.
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